Venison Saltimbocca
Saltimbocca—which translates to “jump in the mouth”— is a Roman classic, traditionally made with thin slices of veal, prosciutto, and sage, cooked quickly so the flavors pop. The dish exemplifies the core principles of Italian cooking: deep respect for ingredients, regional heritage, and the philosophy that “less is more.” Staying true to that ethos of high-quality ingredients simply prepared, this version makes a few deliberate Southern substitutions. Deer hunting in the South provides access to exceptional venison—whether you harvest it yourself or know someone who does—and the loin (often referred to as back strap) is especially prized for its delicacy. Replacing veal with venison introduces a deeper, more complex flavor that benefits from equally assertive accompaniments. Country ham stands in for prosciutto not as a compromise, but as a counterpart: its bold, cured character and subtle smokiness pair naturally with the richness of the venison. In place of white wine, bourbon, apple cider vinegar, and cane syrup form a balanced glaze, bringing warmth, acidity, and sweetness to finish the dish.
Serves 4
2 pounds venison loin, trimmedkosher salt and freshly ground black pepper4 ounces country ham, sliced thin16 fresh sage leaves, plus 2 teaspoons minced1 large egg white, lightly beaten3 tablespoons olive oil4 to 5 garlic cloves, sliced thin1⁄2 cup Wondra flour2 tablespoons bourbon1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar2 tablespoons cane syrup1⁄2 cup chicken stock4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces and chilledCut the tenderloin into 16 slices. Working with 1 piece at a time, place venison medallions between 2 pieces of plastic wrap. Using a meat pounder or rolling pin, gently pound to even 1⁄4-inch thickness. (Pieces should be about 4 to 5 inches long and 3 to 4 inches wide. Trim if necessary.) Pat venison dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Place 1 slice of country ham on top of each medallion, trimming as needed to prevent overhang. Dip 1 side of each sage leaf in egg white and place 1 leaf, egg side down, in the center of each country ham slice. Dust the medallions lightly with the Wondra flour. Cover with plastic and press lightly until the country ham and sage adhere to the venison.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches that don’t overcrowd the skillet, add the medallions, country ham side down, and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, carefully flip venison and cook until the second side is just browned, about 1 minute. Transfer to a serving platter. Repeat with the remaining venison, adding additional oil as necessary.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the now-empty skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sauté the garlic and minced sage until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Deglaze the pan with the bourbon and apple cider vinegar. Turn the heat down to medium. Add the cane syrup and whisk until emulsified. Reduce the liquid by half. Add the chicken stock and any venison juices that have accumulated on the serving platter, and reduce the liquid by half again. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in butter, 1 piece at a time. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over venison and serve.